Sewing with Spun Hi Loft T-Shirt Jersey – Kit Dolman Shirt

Kristen Bunch 
Skill Level: Confident Beginner
Violet Snow has just introduced a new fabric base – Hi Loft T-Shirt Jersey! This base is a medium weight fabric, similar to a high-end t-shirt. Very soft and sturdy. There is about 30% stretch in the horizontal direction and very little in the vertical direction.  Great for shirts and loungewear.  This tutorial walks you through creating a Kit Dolman Shirt using this fabulous fabric base!


PREPARATION
Gather Supplies:
  • Pattern
    • The pattern used for this shirt was the Kit Dolman – a new release from Petite Stitchery and Co. It features lots of options - including color-blocking, multiple sleeve designs and lengths, a split hem, and multiple shirt lengths. It also comes in kid and adult sizes. 
    • For this particular Kit, I used the following options:
      • Color-block front
      • Shirt hemline
      • Cap Sleeve
  • Fabric - This pattern is designed for knit fabrics
    • From the In-House collection of fabrics – Premium Jennifer Lycra, Premium Athletic Knit, Spun Hi Loft T-shirt Jersey, or Double Brushed Poly (DBP) are all great options
    • For this dolman shirt, I used Spun Hi Loft T-Shirt Jersey. This is a great option for this pattern because it is a looser fit with lots of ease and drapes like a t-shirt.
      • Balance Captain! - Large Panel (The one pictured is a medium, but I had to piece the sides together. Using a large panel will prevent that)
      • Lost Boys Small Scale – 1 yard (you will have leftover fabric)
      • Lost Boys Swirl Coord – 1/2 yard (you will have leftover fabric)
  • Cutting Mat & Rotary Cutter
  • If you don’t have these, that’s okay – you can use fabric scissors. A Cutting Mat and Rotary Cutter just make measuring and cutting a little faster and easier
  • Straight Pins and Quilting Clips
    • Used to hold your pieces together while sewing
  • Iron and Ironing Board/Mat
    • For pressing (as desired) 
  • Sewing Machine / Serger 
    • Used to assemble your pattern
    • I used a serger to assemble this shirt; however, a zig zag, triple stitch, or double needle can be used on a sewing machine. These stitches are great for knit fabrics as they allow the fabrics to stretch without popping seams
 Cut:
  • Print and assemble your pattern 
  • Cut fabrics – for this dolman shirt, you should have a front bodice bottom (color block option), front bodice top (color block option), back bodice x2 (mirrored), cap sleeves x2, and neckband.

BODICE
  • Attach the front bodice bottom to the front bodice top. Topstitch if desired

          
-Attach the back bodice pieces together. Topstitch if desired.
  • Attach the back bodice to the front bodice at the shoulder seems
SLEEVES
  • Clip the cap sleeve at the shoulder seam and work your way out each side. Sew together. Repeat for the other side.
SIDE SLIT AND HEMMING
  • To create the side slit, refer to your pattern piece. For a modest slit, use the crop hemline as your guide and place a clip there. This will be your side slit height.
  • Hem the bottom hemline for the front and back bodice. Topstitch. I used a 1” hem for the front and back bodice.
  • Keeping your slit location clip in place, fold the side slit in, wrong sides together. Topstitch. I used a ¼” double fold for a more finished look. 
  • Hem your sleeve by folding in the raw edges, wrong sides together. Topstitch. I used a 1” hem.
FINISHING THE BODICE
  • Attach your front and back bodice side seams, right sides together. Stop at your slit location clip. Since I used a serger on the side seams, I went back with my sewing machine to sew up the serger tail using a zig zag stich. 
  • NECKBAND
  • Attach the raw edges of your neckband, right sides together
  • Attach the neckband to the bodice neckline. Topstitch if desired. Note: Due to the limited stretch for the Hi Loft Jersey, I would recommend using a fabric with more stretch, such as the Jennifer Lycra. It makes it easier to get the finished garment over your head. 
  • All done! Congratulations on your comfy new Kit dolman shirt! We would love it if you would share it in or Facebook group Here!


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